Maltagliati, Ceci, Clams, and Porcini


This too we ate at Trattoria La Marianna in Rimini. It’s a soup made of maltagliati, clams, ceci beans, and porcini mushrooms. You can very easily use a variation on a theme on this soup (sans clams, for example, or hand-crunched tagliatelle in place of maltagliati) and be very happy.

About maltagliati: These are scraps of pasta left on the cutting board after your mother makes tagliatelle or tagliolini or ravioli, some form of pasta that begins with a long sheet of hand-rolled “spoglia.” In restaurants in Italy, they probably ARE scraps of actual home-make pasta. The stuff that’s left on the board is cut up a little more, badly cut, or maltagliati, and tossed in this soup. (At home in the US, I crunch tagliatelle or pappardelle to make my own maltagliati.)

The clams came out the Adriatic, probably this morning. And the porcini mushrooms are indigenous, local, and good. The ceci make the soup substantial and proteiny.

I see a lovely sheen of olive oil. Finely diced parsley is in evidence. No doubt the ingredients have met with garlic somewhere along the way.

My wife and I made a terrible error when we ordered this soup. We split a serving. Malordinato. Next time I’m not messing around. The challenge will be to stop at just one bowl.

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