Pasta with Young Poppy Leaves (le Rosole)

It’s not the same, but almost. And mind-blowing good. In Santarcangelo, where legend has it the Sangiovese grape gets its name, my wife and I have lunch and dinner at Trattoria del Passatore. We go there for many things, chief among them ravioli served with a rosole sauce. Rosole, also known as papavero in Italian,…More

The Ragu Hour–so many ragus, so little time

It’s time well spent. Ragu recipes abound. Here’s what works for me: An onion, a dab of ground meat, wine and peas, tomato puree. This recipe makes ragu that will sauce pasta for four people. In olive oil saute half an onion the size of a tennis ball. Bigger is better. Onion adds sweetness and…More

Pomodori gratinati al forno (tomato, oven, heaven)

Wait ten minutes and your kitchen smells like heaven. For the longest time, I thought of this as a summer dish. Perhaps because I was conditioned to seeing my mother-in-law bring in a haul of tomatoes from her garden and work her magic on them. Then I saw the error of my ways—the utter foolishness…More

Let Them Eat Thistles?–seasonal and sensational

The affectionate term for them is gobbi—hunchbacks. I’m talking about cardone, that distant cousin to artichokes. A stalky plant with raised ribs, cardone resemble celery. Like the artichoke, cardone is a member of the thistle family. Just seeing (or hearing) the word “thistle,” if you know the prickly plant, you feel a wave of caution.…More