At one time it was a mild curse (and may still be), a joke expressing the rivalry between two towns. When a person from Pesaro would say, Va a Fano! it was sort of like saying go to hell.
If Fano is hell, you won’t mind ending up there.
A few miles down SS16 (aka the Via Flaminia) from Pesaro, Fano is more than just another seaside town.. Along with Rimini, Pesaro, Senigalia, and Ancona it was one of the five towns that made up the Adriatic Pentapolis in the 7th and 8th centuries, ruled by Ravenna as part of the Byzantine Empire. Fano was established by Julius Caesar in 49 BC. Because of a temple to the Goddess of Fortune on site, it came to be known as Fanum Fortunae. The city walls, built by Augustus, which you will see driving in from the north, are well preserved, as is the Arch of Augustus.
Set your navigator for Parcheggio Ex-Caserma Paolini. Cross the street and you’ll be in the old city. To get a full sweep of the town, continue southeast along SS16 a few blocks to Via Cavour and walk left into the city center.
Two advantages to beginning your tour like this. One, you will walk past the turn to Osteria dalla Peppa, an excellent eating establishment with local cuisine (of course) that you might consider for lunch. Look left for the restaurant. Look right for the pasta shop, where you’ll see pasta being rolled and cut in a Peppa shop window. A second advantage: near the end of Via Cavour you’ll see L’Enoteca Il Buongusto, an excellent wine and chocolate shop. In cool and cold months you will find an amazing inventory of chocolates. How can you possibly resist?
Following Via Cavour around to the left, you’ll be on the main drag of the city center, Corso Giacomo Matteotti. Take your time. Shops galore, bars, bakeries, churches; appetites and absolution often on the same block. Half way down, jog to see some history, ancient and late Middle Ages. Deviate to the left to see the Arch of Augustus and immediately after it the Museo della Via Flaminia.
Back on the Corso, deviate to the right to find the Museo Archeologico e Pinacoteca del Palazzo Malatestiano. Yes, those Malatestas. They were everywhere.
At the far end of the Corso bear right on Via Mura Augustee, proceed to Via della Fortezza, jog left, then right on Via Nazario Sauro. Along this street, you’ll detect a more modern feel to the bars and gelaterie. Stop and relax. Or continue on to Bar del Faro to get “la vera Moretta Fanese,” the special fisherman’s coffee. You’ll be very near the sea. And you’ll be very near heaven, no matter what the Pesarese say.
Osteria della Peppa. Via Vecchia, 8, 61032 Fano. 3316454088
Ristorante Vecchio Fano. Via Bonaccorsi, 12/14, 61032 Fano. 0721803493
Bar del Faro. Via Nazario Sauro, 232/A, 61032 Fano
L’Enoteca Il Buongusto. Via Cavour, 67, 61032 Fano.