Milk, Please–by the glass, the litre, and the gallon

No one, as far as I can tell, drinks milk in Italy.  Whenever I find myself standing in line at the supermarket, holding a liter of milk–latte parzialmente scremato, which I take to be fresh 2 percent–I’m the only one. I’ve never seen anyone buy milk. There’s a tiny little milk section over there in…More

A Reasonable Excess–a pastry, a pasta, a pleasure

I’ll see your 10,000 steps. And raise you 10,000 bites. Let’s hear it for disinhibition. Case in point: yesterday. If it had been a nice day, we might have walked uphill, from Borgo Maggiore to San Marino’s third tower, gaining thousands of steps on our way to 10,000 and, in the uphill part, climbing the…More

Biberius–rhymes with gregarious

We were eavesdropping last night.  We couldn’t help ourselves. And we were glad we did. We were sitting outside at Biberius in Rimini, our second night in town. Our second night back in Italy. A guy sitting directly behind me was talking about a cook. He had two children, this cook. He was thinking about…More

Leftovers: An Apologia–and a way of life

Every so often I met Shirley at the copy machine. She was senior staff, I was junior. One day the conversation turned to food.  “I’m by myself,” she said. “I poach a big piece of salmon on Monday and eat it all week.” I was horrified.  And must have shown it. “I don’t enjoy cooking,”…More

Bird Beans (Fagioli all’uccelletto)

I can’t get enough beans, ever. This dish resembles, probably badly, a Tuscan bean dish called fagioli all’uccelleto. I’m translating that roughly, and probably badly, as “bird beans.” For this dish you need: dried beans, tomato, sage, garlic, and love. The recipe calls for cannellini. I usually substitute Michigan navy beans, whose goodness is unsurpassed.…More

How to Correct Your Coffee

“Did you drink my coffee?” Tizi asks. “Yes, by accident.” We’ve just finished a satisfying lunch. In Italy a post-prandial blast of espresso adds an exclamation mark to the experience. Lately she’s been taking her coffee “corrected.” With a dash of “mistra,” the local anise flavored grappa. Typically my wine intake at the table is…More