Boy, was I wrong. Wrong about local tomatoes that are coming into the farmers’ markets right now, gorgeous, firm, red, both sweet and acidic beauties that I’m using to bake alla gratinata. Wrong because in the off season, I content myself with hydroponic vine-ripened tomatoes that do have a little flavor, that are firm enough…More
Tag Archives: on the menu
Bean Me–tuna loves the vulgar staple
“Danny’s not having pasta,” my daughter says. We’re setting the table for lunch at her house. I’ve brought a pot of ragu and tagliatelle, which we’ll eat with a generous dusting of freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano. If I were on death row, this would be my last supper request. Her husband, I gather, is in a…More
Yes, Rabbit–pan, oven, mouth
In the kitchen I originate very little. I’m an homage cook. I replicate and modify. One dish I’m proud of is a modified arrabiata pasta. Very modified. Extremely modified. Actually, it has little to do with arrabiata. The story: One year my wife and I had a long lunch in Montepulciano, the one in Tuscany…More
Seaoned Breadcrumbs–DIY
A friend asked once: “Are you one of those people who makes his own breadcrumbs?” No, I’m not. I had just pulled a sheet of roasted tomatoes out of the oven. Topped with seasoned breadcrumbs, they perfumed the house, then ravished the palate.More
There’s Truffle in River City
And I do mean truffle, the white ones and the black ones, those gnarly, earthy nuggets of delight, the ones you dream about, their shavings falling like heavenly snow flakes on your tagliatelle. Yes, those truffles.More
Zucchini Flower Risotto
This is zucchini flower risotto revisited. The one my wife made the other day was with brown rice, which meant a long cook and a risotto that didn’t have that velvety, gooey consistency that makes you consider executing a faceplant. Yesterday she used arborio rice. Velvet, check. Goo, check. Faceplant, suffice to say I got…More
The Ragu Hour–so many ragus, so little time
It’s time well spent. Ragu recipes abound. Here’s what works for me: An onion, a dab of ground meat, wine and peas, tomato puree. This recipe makes ragu that will sauce pasta for four people. In olive oil saute half an onion the size of a tennis ball. Bigger is better. Onion adds sweetness and…More
Let Them Eat Thistles?–seasonal and sensational
The affectionate term for them is gobbi—hunchbacks. I’m talking about cardone, that distant cousin to artichokes. A stalky plant with raised ribs, cardone resemble celery. Like the artichoke, cardone is a member of the thistle family. Just seeing (or hearing) the word “thistle,” if you know the prickly plant, you feel a wave of caution.…More
Turkey Cutlets–Cooked in Milk (the aunt said so)
A fast, easy, irresistible meat dish Thanksgiving day in Italy. There will be no turkey in the roaster, no dressing and mashed potatoes and gravy, no pumpkin pie. Later tonight we’re meeting friends for Thanksgiving ravioli. We have to save ourselves for that. But for lunch? In the spirit of the holiday (sort of), turkey…More